What the AT looks like – when you aren’t in the green tunnel
Well I’ve been home for one month. One month of Netflix, stretching (my knees and feet still ache) and real food. No more ramen for this thru-hiker! For the last half of my journey, I must admit, I was rather abysmal at blogging. All of my focus shifted to making it to Katahdin in one piece. That was quite the challenge. But I never forgot about my writing and as I walked those last hundred miles, I spent a lot of time thinking about this incredible journey. Each state I walked through was unique, with its own beauty, quirks, and obstacles. How to describe all 2189.2 miles in a single post? Break it down, state by state, obvie. So here it is, the fourteen states of the AT, in a nutshell.
Georgia – The Perfection State. Down to the leaves neatly arranged along the trail, Georgia knows what’s up. Switchbacks, bear cables, wide paths, daily views, frequent town options/resupply, need I go on? What a wonderful introduction to the A.T. It set the bar very high.
View from Springer Mountain – Day 1
First border crossing – we were ecstatic
There’s a reason for that skull – Jacob’s ladder felt like death
Tennessee – The Smoky State. Tennessee fades into NC, and vice versa. But for the most part, the Smokies stayed on the TN side of the border. From Clingman’s Dome to the northern park border, it was evergreen bliss. I skipped Gatlinburg, but I hear the moonshine down there was pretty good.
Clingman’s Dome
Virginia – The Longest State. Ever. 540 miles of rolling pasture lands, incredible small towns like Damascus and Waynesboro, and the worst National Park in America – that is if you’re hiking the AT. If you’re alternatively driving down the 100+ mile long Skyline Drive through Shenandoah, I’m sure it is exceptional. We spent our 2 month trail anniversary at Big Meadows Lodge, and that was delightful, complete with blackberry cobbler that turned my tongue black for days. But apart from that one magical night, I was running towards the park border. I also found my first deer tick in the park…
West Virginia – The Blink State. As in *blink* and it’s gone.
Maryland – The, um, I can’t think of anything, State. I remember the trail being nice and wide. And there was a wicked bad thunderstorm the night we camped at Annapolis Rock.
Pennsylvania – Rocksylvania? Too obvious. The Trail Magic State. Everywhere we went in PA there were amazing people, treating us to dinner, allowing us to camp in their backyards, buying us beers, and overall showing us that chivalry isn’t dead. The first half of the state also provided a road through the wilderness, with one of the flattest, straightest, most enjoyable stretches of trail on the AT. Not much in the way of scenery, but we were over scenic views at this point. We were happy to have the opportunity to make up some miles without our knees screaming at us.
Best meal of the entire trail, courtesy of Brenda and Kyle – thank you so much for your hospitality!
Climbing out of Lehigh Gap
New Jersey – The Bear State. You thought you saw some bears in Shenandoah? Well those were babies. NJ has the real bears – the big ones coming straight down the trail towards you. Your heart stops beating for a moment. You instinctually, without realizing, start to slowly back away, darting into the woods the first second the bear isn’t staring directly into your terror-filled eyes.
Ah the beautiful parks of PA. Full of maintained trails and snack bars. ❤
New York – The Harriman State. Harriman State Park was GORGEOUS. We camped on top of Black Mountain with a view of New York City skyline. Bear Mountain was beautiful. I loved everything about New York. It might even be my favorite.
Prospect Rock
Camping on Black Mtn
Connecticut – The Bug State. We crossed the border into Connecticut and were greeted with gnats once again. They followed us through the lovely pine forests of CT, down into the valley where Kent resides, and into the depths of the cool, stunning Sages Ravine. They disappeared as soon as our feet touched Massachusetts.
Massachusetts – The Root State. I tried to enjoy the trail, I really did. But those roots, ahhhhhhhh.
Vermont – The Band-Aid State. Every single day on the trail in Vermont, I found band-aids. Abandoned by pristine lakes, scattered on the forest floor, discarded next to shelters and streams. It was disturbing. Other than the band-aids, I don’t remember a lot about Vermont. Perhaps because the end was fast approaching and my focus subsequently shifted from absorbing all of my surroundings to simply making it to Katahdin alive. I will, however, always remember my last day in Vermont. The trail here was recently rerouted and even though it was full of PUDs, I loved it. I also past by several farms selling fresh goods and delicious pies. Oh, and Mountain Meadows Lodge = Best Zero Day Ever!
Just a few from my collection
New Hampshire – The Patriotic State. The slogan is “Live free or die.” ‘Nuff said. Everyone acknowledges that the Whites are the most scenic section of the AT. People from around the world come here to hike and for good reason. The huts were nice, stealth camping was nicer. Standing in line for 20minutes to summit Mt. Washington – probably could have lived without this experience.
Maine – The Danger State. Is it trying to kill you? Break your leg? Both? Yes, yes it is. Never have I been so constantly on edge. Is that a direct decent down a rock face? Surely that’s not the trail. Let me find the actual trail because no one would ever expect me to get down this thing. Nope, that has to be it. F*#k. We also did more night hiking here than in any other state and it always seemed to be down the steepest descent of the day. It was exhausting and it felt a bit mean to have the trail suddenly turn into such a ferocious beast at the very end. Once we passed Mahoosuc, however, things significantly improved, as if Maine were saying “ok, you past the test – here’s the real trail to Katahdin.” An impressive finale that will live on, permanently etched in my mind as the single greatest finish to any hike I have ever completed.
Rainbow Lake in 100 mile wilderness – appropriately named
That’s it. That’s all. That’s the AT in one blog post. I expected some sort of life-altering conclusion when I summited Katahdin. A moment of epiphany. But it never came. I turned around and walked back down Maine’s Mountain, back into the reality of “life.” I stepped into a car, drove to a town, slept in a bed, and woke up to the thought that I never had to hitch back to the AT ever again. That part of my life was over. And that made me feel very, very happy.
HUGE, ENORMOUS, NEVER GOING TO BE BIG ENOUGH THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO BELIEVED IN ME AND SUPPORTED ME ALONG THIS EPIC ADVENTURE. I WOULD NEVER HAVE MADE IT WITHOUT YOU!!!!! (Especially you, Mom. Love you the most, forever and always)
Em's Life in the Wild 
Wow! A massive “good on ya!” From this Aussie wannabe-thru-hiker. Great read. Cheers 😀
Well done. Better late than never (as with all of your posts!). Ooohh…only said it to ‘see’ your face. 🙂
*eye roll*
So……PCT or CDT next?
PCT! – In two or three years. If a major earthquake hasn’t destroyed the west coast first…:)
You are to be commended, Emily!! I knew you could do it, as you absolutely accomplish all that you decide to take on in your life. Loved following you and look forward to seeing you in person. Much Love, Aunt Carolyn
How is that for an insight on the perpetual question “Why go away?”
“Why do you go away? So that you can come back. So that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colors. And the people there see you differently, too. Coming back to where you started is not the same as never leaving.”
Terry Pratchett
WAY TO GO!! Great pics- thanks for sharing!! 🙂